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Just Grow Something | Evidence-Based Home Gardening: Daily Summaries Delivered
by Karin Velez
Grow a better vegetable garden, whether you're a seasoned gardener or have never grown a thing in your life. Karin helps home gardeners learn to grow their own food using evidence-based techniques and research. She talks all about specific plants, pests, diseases, soil and plant health, mulch, garden planning, and more. It's not just the "how" but also the "why" that makes us better. The goal? For everyone to know how to grow their own food no matter what sized space they have or their experience level. Tune in each week to plan, learn, and grow with your friend in the garden, Karin Velez.
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- Yesterday41 min
The Science We Got Wrong: How Plant Research Rewrote the Rules for Gardening - Ep. 311
For most of the last century, gardeners were taught to cultivate their soil after every rain to conserve moisture, to think of plant roots as lone competitors, and to treat "plant communication" as science fiction. All of that was built on the best evidence available at the time, and all of it has been revised, in some cases more than once, as better tools let researchers see what earlier generations simply could not. In this episode, we walk through four real case studies of plant science changing its mind. Along the way, we talk about how the scientific method works, why one of my favorite phrases, "we don't know what we don't know," is not a discouraging idea but an exciting one, and what all of this means for the choices you make in your own garden each season, now and into the future. Let’s dig in! References and Resources: Chalker-Scott, L., and C.H. Daniels. (2016). "Scientific Literacy for the Citizen Scientist." WSU Extension Manual EM100E. https://wpcdn.web.wsu.edu/extension/uploads/sites/30/2024/07/Scientific-Literacy-for-the-Citizen-Scientist.pdf Chalker-Scott, L. (2021, revised). "Dust Mulch Efficacy in Gardens and Landscapes." WSU Extension Fact Sheet FS167E. https://wpcdn.web.wsu.edu/wp-ecommerce/uploads/sites/2/product-3540-sku-FS167E.pdf Chalker-Scott, L. (2017). "A Gardener's Primer to Mycorrhizae: Understanding How They Work and Learning How to Protect Them." WSU Extension Fact Sheet FS269E. https://wpcdn.web.wsu.edu/wp-ecommerce/uploads/sites/2/product-3286-sku-FS269E.pdf Chalker-Scott, L. (2023). "Gardening with Companion Plants." WSU Extension Publication EM128E. https://pubs.extension.wsu.edu/product/gardening-with-companion-plants-home-garden-series/ Oklahoma State University Extension. "Mycorrhizal Fungi." Fact Sheet. https://extension.okstate.edu/fact-sheets/mycorrhizal-fungi Pacific Horticulture Society. "Mycorrhizal Fungi, Nature's Key to Plant Survival and Success." https://pacifichorticulture.org/articles/mycorrhizal-fungi-natures-key-to-plant-survival-and-success/ Cao, D., Chabikwa, T., Barbier, F., Dun, E.A., Fichtner, F., Dong, L., Kerr, S.C., & Beveridge, C.A. (2023). "Auxin-independent effects of apical dominance induce changes in phytohormones correlated with bud outgrowth." Plant Physiology, 192(2), 1420–1434. https://doi.org/10.1093/plphys/kiad034 Mason, M.G., Ross, J.J., Babst, B.A., Wienclaw, B.N., & Beveridge, C.A. (2014). "Sugar demand, not auxin, is the initial regulator of apical dominance." Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, 111(16), 6092–6097. https://www.pnas.org/doi/10.1073/pnas.1322045111 Barbier, F.F., Dun, E.A., & Beveridge, C.A. (2017). "A Growing Stem Inhibits Bud Outgrowth — The Overlooked Theory of Apical Dominance." Frontiers in Plant Science, 8:1874. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5671643/ "Lessons from a century of apical dominance research." (2023). Journal of Experimental Botany. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10400159/ Simard, S.W., Perry, D.A., Jones, M.D., Myrold, D.D., Durall, D.M., & Molina, R. (1997). "Net transfer of carbon between ectomycorrhizal tree species in the field." Nature, 388, 579–582. https://www.nature.com/articles/41557 "Belowground carbon transfer across mycorrhizal networks among trees: Facts, not fantasy." (2023). Review discussing the scope and limits of current evidence for mycorrhizal carbon transfer. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10751480/ Baldwin, I.T., & Schultz, J.C. (1983). "Rapid Changes in Tree Leaf Chemistry Induced by Damage: Evidence for Communication Between Plants." Science, 221(4607), 277–279. https://www.science.org/doi/10.
- 1 weeks ago39 min
The Mid-Season Soil Check - Ep. 310
Your garden is at its busiest in July, and so is the wear and tear on your soil. In this episode we get past the fertilizer conversation and into whether your soil is still functioning at all — how traffic, pounding rain, heat, and heavy-feeding crops degrade soil mid-season, the physical, chemical, and biological warning signs to look for right now, and tests you can run this week to sort the problems. Plus, how to use a mid-season open bed as a soil-building opportunity. Let's dig in! REFERENCES & RESOURCES University of Delaware Cooperative Extension — "Combating Soil Compaction" — https://www.udel.edu/academics/colleges/canr/cooperative-extension/fact-sheets/combating-soil-compaction/ University of Minnesota Extension — "Backyard science: Is your soil healthy?" (slake test, infiltration test, earthworm counts) — https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/backyard-science-your-soil-healthy Cornell Soil Health Laboratory — Individual soil analyses, including wet aggregate stability — https://soilhealthlab.cals.cornell.edu/testing-services/individual-soil-analyses/ Purdue University Vegetable Crops Hotline — "Nitrogen Loss from Wet Soils" — https://vegcropshotline.org/article/nitrogen-loss-from-wet-soils/ UF/IFAS Extension — CIR 1092/SS117, "Soil and Container Media Electrical Conductivity Interpretations" — https://ask.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/SS117 Texas A&M AgriLife, Aggie Horticulture — "Salt Injury" (Cucurbit Problem Solver) — https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/problem-solvers/cucurbit-problem-solver/leaf-disorders/salt-injury/ Purdue University Vegetable Crops Hotline — "Summer Cover Crops for Improved Soil Health and Weed Management" — https://vegcropshotline.org/article/summer-cover-crops-for-improved-soil-health-and-weed-management/ Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593 Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.
- 2 weeks ago24 min
Battling Blossom End Rot the Right Way - Ep. 309
If you've grown tomatoes or peppers for more than one season, you more than likely know the feeling been waiting that first tomato to ripen, finally see it’s blushing red, and you flip it over to find a sunken, leathery patch covering half the bottom of the fruit. And if you went looking for answers, you probably found three of them repeated everywhere you turned: sprinkle in some crushed eggshells, spray on some calcium, add a scoop of Epsom salt. All three of those are extremely common advice. Two of them do close to nothing. And one of them can genuinely make the problem worse. That problem? Blossom end rot. Today on Just Grow Something we're covering what blossom end rot really is at the cellular level, the conditions that trigger it in your garden, why the most popular home remedies for it are built on a total misunderstanding of the problem, and what the research consistently recommends instead. Let's dig in. University Extension and Research-Based Resources Utah State University Extension — Blossom End Rot (IPM Fact Sheet) https://extension.usu.edu/planthealth/ipm/notes_ag/veg-blossom-end-rot Purdue Extension — Blossom End Rot of Tomato Fruit (BP-13-W) https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-13-w.html University of Maryland Extension — Blossom End Rot on Vegetables https://extension.umd.edu/resource/blossom-end-rot-vegetables Alabama Cooperative Extension System — Blossom-End Rot in Tomatoes: Causes and Prevention (ANR-1059) https://www.aces.edu/blog/topics/lawn-garden/blossom-end-rot-in-tomatoes-causes-and-prevention/ University of Massachusetts Amherst, Center for Agriculture, Food, and the Environment — Solanaceous: Blossom End Rot https://ag.umass.edu/vegetable/fact-sheets/solanaceous-blossom-end-rot Oregon State University Extension — Blossom-End Rot of Tomatoes (FS-139) https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/fs-139-blossom-end-rot-tomatoes University of Wisconsin Horticulture Extension — Blossom End Rot https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/blossom-end-rot/ University of California Cooperative Extension, UC ANR "The Real Dirt" — Fighting Blossom End Rot https://ucanr.edu/blog/real-dirt/article/fighting-blossom-end-rot University of Connecticut Extension — Put an End to Blossom-End Rot: Water and Nutrient Management is Key https://homegarden.cahnr.uconn.edu/2025/06/15/blossom-end-rot/ Clemson Cooperative Extension HGIC — Gardening Myths: Fix Blossom End Rot with Calcium Sprays https://hgic.clemson.edu/gardening-myths-fix-blossom-end-rot-with-calcium-sprays/ North Dakota State University Extension — The Epsom Salt Myth https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/extension-topics/gardening-and-horticulture/vegetables/epsom-salt-myth University of Minnesota Extension — Do Common Soil Health "Home Remedies" Work? (Coffee Grounds, Eggshells, Epsom Salts) https://extension.umn.edu/manage-soil-nutrients/coffee-grounds-eggshells-epsom-salts Peer-Reviewed Research Topcu, Y., Nambeesan, S. U., & van der Knaap, E. (2022). Blossom-end rot: a century-old problem in tomato (Solanum lycopersicum L.) and other vegetables. Molecular Horticulture, 2, 1. https://doi.org/10.1186/s43897-021-00022-9 Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: <a href="https://www
- 3 weeks ago31 min
Heat Stress vs Drought Stress in the Vegetable Garden - Ep. 308
It's two o'clock on a July afternoon. You walk out to check the garden, and your squash leaves are drooping so low they're nearly touching the mulch. Your tomato plants look like they've given up on the whole season. If your first thought, every single time, is “I need to water right now,” hold on a second before you grab that hose. Because that dramatic afternoon collapse you're looking at likely has absolutely nothing to do with how much water is in your soil. So today on Just Grow Something we're covering three things: what's actually happening inside a plant's cells when the temperature spikes, the specific ways to tell heat stress wilting apart from drought stress wilting, and what heat stress does beyond the leaves, because your tomatoes and peppers and squash can look perfectly fine and still be failing to set fruit, and that's a heat problem too. Let's dig in. Join the Fall Garden Challenge: https://justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/fall References and Resources: Graci, S., & Barone, A. (2024). Tomato plant response to heat stress: a focus on candidate genes for yield-related traits. Frontiers in Plant Science, 14, 1245661. https://doi.org/10.3389/fpls.2023.1245661 Sellami, D., & Kooli, S. (2025). Physiological and growth responses of tomato plants to heat stress. Discover Plants. https://doi.org/10.1007/s44372-025-00462-3 University of Maryland Extension — Drought and Excessive Heat Stress https://extension.umd.edu/resource/drought-and-excessive-heat-stress University of Maryland Extension — Pollination of Vegetable Crops in a Changing Climate https://extension.umd.edu/resource/pollination-vegetable-crops-changing-climate NC State Cooperative Extension, Beaufort County — What "Wilting" Really Means: Heat Stress vs. Water Needs https://beaufort.ces.ncsu.edu/news/what-wilting-really-means-heat-stress-vs-water-needs/ Oregon State University Extension — Heat Wave in the Garden: How to Identify and Prevent Heat Stress in Plants https://extension.oregonstate.edu/catalog/em-9556-heat-wave-garden-how-identify-prevent-heat-stress-plants Oregon State University Extension — Why Vegetables Drop Blossoms https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/why-vegetables-drop-blossoms Oregon State University Extension — Mother Nature May Need Help to Pollinate Squash and Cucumbers https://extension.oregonstate.edu/news/mother-nature-may-need-help-pollinate-squash-cucumbers Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593 Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.
- 4 weeks ago25 min
How to Time Your Fall Brassicas - Ep. 307
Fall gardening doesn't start in September. For the crops that take a long time to produce, your broccoli, your cauliflower, your cabbage, your Brussels sprouts, it starts right now in late June and early July. And if you've never had a productive fall brassica bed, it's almost certainly because you started too late and it took me a lot of years to master this. This episode is about fall gardening planning, and specifically about the crops that require you to be thinking ahead right now, in late June and into July, when literally nothing about summer conditions suggest that fall is coming. We’re talking about the timing, why it matters, how to calculate it for your specific first frost date, and exactly what to do if you're sitting here thinking you may have already missed the window — because you might not have, but we need to move quickly. Let’s dig in. Join my FREE fall garden email challenge! https://justgrowsomethingpodcast.com/fall Resources: How to Calculate Your Fall Brassica Dates Step 1: Find your average first frost date (garden.org/apps/frost-dates or your local extension service) Step 2: Take days to maturity for your chosen variety Step 3: Add 10–14 days for the short-day factor Step 4: Count backward from first frost — that is your transplant-out deadline Step 5: Count back another 4–6 weeks — that is your seed-starting deadline MU Extension — Vegetable Planting Calendar (G6201): Variety-specific fall planting dates for Missouri's three planting regions. https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6201 UMN Extension — Growing Broccoli: Seed-starting timing (early to late July for fall crop), variety selection, and fall head quality. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-broccoli UMN Extension — Growing Broccoli: Seed-starting timing (early to late July for fall crop), variety selection, and fall head quality. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-broccoli UMN Extension — Growing Brussels Sprouts: Start seeds in June indoors or direct, water deeply once weekly, harvest through fall frosts. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-brussels-sprouts UMN Extension — Growing Cauliflower: Start seeds in July for fall crop; cool temperatures essential for quality curd formation. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-cauliflower UMN Extension — Growing Cabbage: For fall crop, plant seed directly in garden in early July; cabbage takes 60–100 days. https://extension.umn.edu/vegetables/growing-cabbage UMD Extension — Planting Dates for Vegetable Crops (Transplant Timing): Short-day factor methodology for fall transplant timing. https://extension.umd.edu/sites/extension.umd.edu/files/2021-03/PlantingDatesforVegetableCropsinMaryland.pdf Just Grow Something: https://justgrowsomething.com Gardening Courses: https://justgrowsomething.com/courses Just Grow Something Merch and Downloads: https://justgrowsomething.com/shop Just Grow Something Gardening Friends Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/share/g/18YgHveF5P/ Check out how you can become a patron on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/JustGrowSomething Feed my coffee habit: https://buymeacoffee.com/justgrowsomething Amazon storefront: https://www.amazon.com/shop/justgrowsomething Get 10% off and FREE shipping on my favorite raised planters at Planter Box Direct using code JUSTGROW10: https://planterboxdirect.com/?ref=593 Host
- Jun 23, 202641 min
Mid-Season Fertilizing: How to Know What Your Vegetables Actually Need - Ep. 306
It’s June, your tomatoes are climbing, your corn is waist-high, and the internet is full of fertilizing advice—most of it missing the most important variable: timing. In this episode, we dig into what your vegetables need right now at mid-season, why nitrogen timing is the thing most gardeners get wrong, how fruiting crops and leafy crops have completely different needs, and when fertilizing can actually hurt instead of help. We’ll cover how to read your plants for deficiency signs, how to side-dress correctly, and why the most common mid-season mistake isn’t under-fertilizing—it’s fertilizing at the wrong time with the wrong form. Grounded in university extension research and my own experience farming through Missouri summers, this one will give you a clear, crop-by-crop picture of what to do right now. Let’s dig in. Crop-by-Crop Quick Reference: Mid-Season Nitrogen Timing LEAFY CROPS (lettuce, kale, chard, spinach, collards, arugula, basil) When to side-dress: 3–4 weeks after transplanting or when 2–3 inches tall; repeat every 4–6 weeks for heavy-harvesting crops Goal: steady nitrogen supply throughout season Note: don’t exceed recommended rates—excess nitrogen increases pest/disease vulnerability COLE CROPS (broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower) When to side-dress: approximately 30 days after transplanting, during active vegetative growth Hold off once head formation begins TOMATOES When to side-dress: when first fruits are approximately one-third grown (golf ball size) DO NOT apply nitrogen at transplant or during early fruit set—drives vegetative growth at expense of fruit Second application: 2 weeks after first ripe fruit; third: 4 weeks later Rate: 0.5 lb actual nitrogen per 100 feet of row per application PEPPERS When to side-dress: early vegetative growth before fruit set Pull back after fruit is setting SWEET CORN When to side-dress: when plants are approximately one-third grown (knee-high) Apply alongside rows, not into the whorl of leaves May benefit from a second application before tasseling CUCUMBERS / SQUASH / MELONS When to side-dress: after vines are well-established and fruit is setting regularly Not during early flowering window For squash with blossom drop only: do not add nitrogen—address pollination instead BEANS / PEAS (inoculated) Mid-season nitrogen side-dressing generally not needed if seeds were inoculated Extra nitrogen causes excessive leaf growth and reduced pod set If not inoculated: apply light nitrogen early in vegetative growth only Side-Dressing How-To Move mulch aside before applying; replace afterward Keep granular fertilizer 4–6 inches from plant stems to prevent burn Work granular into top 1–2 inches of soil Water in after application—nitrogen moves into the root zone with moisture Organic options: blood meal or alfalfa pellets (work in lightly; slower to show results); fish emulsion (liquid, faster uptake, more frequent application needed) Signs of Nutrient Deficiency Nitrogen: yellowing starting on oldest, lowest leaves; stunted or stalled growth Phosphorus: stunted growth; reddish-purple tint in leaf tissue (often triggered by cold soil, not low soil P) Potassium: browning at leaf edges, starting with older leaves Note: many of these symptoms overlap with stress from crowding, insufficient sun, compaction, waterlogged roots, or nematode damage—rule those out first Common Myths Addressed Myth: More fertilizer = more production. The research is clear: overapplied nitrogen causes excess vegetative growth at the expense of fruit, increases pest and disease vulnerability, and leaches into groundwater without benefiting plants. Myth: If plants look off, they need fertilizer. Nutrient deficiency symptoms look almost identical to symptoms of watering problems, compaction, pH issues, root damage, and pest pressure. Identify the actual cause before applying anything. Myth: Tomatoes need nitrogen all season long. Timing matters. Nitrogen during the early fruit-set window drives vegetative growth and reduces yields. Wait until fruit is sizing up before side-dressing. Myth: Beans and peas are heavy feeders like corn. Inoculated legumes fix their own nitrogen from the air. Additional nitrogen pushes leaf growth at the expense of pods. Resources Get on my newsletter list: </strong
- Jun 16, 202641 min
Early Blight Versus Late Blight in Tomatoes: Don't Get This One Wrong! - Ep. 305
Every June, one of the most common questions that floods gardening groups, emails, and extension offices is some version of: “My tomato leaves are turning brown — do I have blight?” The confusion is completely understandable, because there are two diseases that get lumped under that word — and they are caused by completely different organisms, show up in different ways, and require completely different responses. Treating late blight like early blight — or vice versa — can mean the difference between saving your plants and losing your entire harvest. In this episode, horticulturist and market farmer Karin Velez breaks both diseases down in plain language: what they look like, where they show up on the plant, what conditions favor them, how fast they move, what happens if you ignore them, and exactly what to do when you find either one. Whether you’re seeing spots on your lowest leaves or a whole section of your garden that looks like it got hit by frost overnight, this episode will help you figure out what you’re looking at — and what to do next. Let’s dig in. References and Resources Captain Jack’s Copper Fungicide - https://amzn.to/43DKqAn Penn State Extension — Tomato Diseases and Disorders in the Home Garden: https://extension.psu.edu/tomato-diseases-and-disorders-in-the-home-garden Penn State Extension — Scouting and Identifying Tomato Diseases: https://extension.psu.edu/scouting-and-identifying-tomato-diseases Penn State Extension — Tomato-Potato Late Blight in the Home Garden: https://extension.psu.edu/tomato-potato-late-blight-in-the-home-garden University of Georgia Extension — Common Tomato Diseases in Georgia (Bulletin B1285): https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B1285&title=common-tomato-diseases-in-georgia UGA Extension, Madison County — Tomato Troubles: https://site.extension.uga.edu/madison/2021/08/tomato-troubles/ University of Minnesota Extension — Late Blight of Tomato and Potato: https://extension.umn.edu/disease-management/late-blight Michigan State University Extension — Organic Management of Early Blight on Tomato (Hausbeck Lab): https://www.canr.msu.edu/hausbeck/Uploads/PDF/FS_Organic-Management-of-Early-Blight-on-Tomato.pdf UC ANR / UC IPM — Late Blight of Tomato (Phytophthora infestans): https://ipm.ucanr.edu/agriculture/tomato/late-blight/ Pacific Northwest Pest Management Handbooks — Tomato Late Blight: https://pnwhandbooks.org/plantdisease/host-disease/tomato-solanum-lycopersicum-late-blight Cornell University — Disease-Resistant Vegetable Varieties (late blight resistance): https://www.vegetables.cornell.edu/pest-management/disease-factsheets/disease-resistant-vegetable-varieties/ Midwest Vegetable Production Guide — current fungicide recommendations for late blight (referenced by Penn State and UMN Extension): https://mwveguide.org/ USAblight.org — national real-time late blight tracking and outbreak alerts (when it’s working?): http://usablight.org/ Quick-Reference: Early Blight vs. Late Blight at a Glance Pathogen type | Early Blight: true fungus (Alternaria solani) | Late Blight: water mold / oomycete (Phytophthora infestans) Ideal temperature | Early Blight: 68–77°F (warm) | Late Blight: 60–78°F (cool to mild) Where it starts | Early Blight: oldest/lowest leaves first | Late Blight: anywhere on the plant, no pattern Lesion appearance | Early Blight: dark bullseye with concentric rings, yell
- Jun 9, 202645 min
How to Manage Squash Vine Borer - Ep. 304
Every year, gardeners across the country watch their squash plants collapse overnight and have absolutely no idea why until it’s too late. The culprit is the squash vine borer, and it is one of the most misunderstood pests in the home garden. In this episode, Karin Velez breaks down the full life cycle of the squash vine borer, including regional timing differences that explain why gardeners in Florida, Missouri, and New Hampshire are fighting very different battles. She covers the remedies that likely don’t work (no matter how many gardening blogs swear by them), the strategies that actually do, and how to build a prevention plan before you ever see a moth. Whether you’ve been battling these for years or just lost your first plant to a mystery wilt, this one’s for you. Let’s dig in. Quick-Reference: Squash Vine Borer Management at a Glance Most susceptible crops: zucchini, yellow summer squash, acorn squash, Hubbard squash, pumpkins (Cucurbita pepo) Less susceptible crops: butternut squash, cucumbers, melons, watermelon Diagnostic sign: frass (greenish-yellow sawdust) at the base of the stem near a small hole South: first flight May, 2 generations possible, adult activity May–October Mid-country (MO, KY, OH, IN, VA): first flight mid-June, peak June–July North (MN, WI, NH, PA, SD): first flight ~June 20, peak July 10–15, mostly finished by August 1 West Coast: rarely affected What works: pheromone traps for monitoring, floating row covers (on clean ground), planting date manipulation, variety selection, timed stem sprays (spinosad, Bt, pyrethroids before larvae enter), fall tillage, post-harvest sanitation, surgical larva removal if caught early What does not work once larvae are inside: all foliar insecticide applications Episode References Insect Netting: https://amzn.to/4vuYp7s University Extension Resources University of Kentucky Entomology — Squash Vine Borer (EF-314), Ric Bessin: https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef314 Ohio State University Extension — Squash Vine Borer Damage and Management: What to Look for and When to Act (ENT-0106): https://ohioline.osu.edu/factsheet/ent-0106 Illinois Extension — Squash Vine Borer: https://extension.illinois.edu/insects/squash-vine-borer Illinois Extension — Managing Squash Vine Borer in the Garden (Good Growing blog): https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2022-07-15-managing-squash-vine-borer-garden Illinois Extension — Squash Vine Borer Has Arrived: https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/over-garden-fence/2024-08-20-squash-vine-borer-has-arrived UMass Amherst Extension — Squash Vine Borer (CAFE Vegetable Fact Sheet): https://ag.umass.edu/vegetable/fact-sheets/squash-vine-borer Penn State Extension — Squash Vine Borer: https://extension.psu.edu/squash-vine-borer University of New Hampshire Cooperative Extension — Managing Squash Vine Borer Problems in New Hampshire (Dr. Alan T. Eaton & George Hamilton): https://extension.unh.edu/resource/managing-squash-vine-borer-problems-new-hampshire-fact-sheet South Dakota State University Extension — Biology and Management of Squash Vine Borer in the Garden: https://extension.sdstate.edu/biology-and-management-squash-vine-borer-garden University of Minnesota Extension — Squash Vine Borers: https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-insects/squash-vine-borers University of Wisconsin-Madison Division of Extension — Squash Vine Borer: https://hort.extension.wisc.edu/articles/squash-vine-borer-melittia-curcurbitae/ eOrganic (USDA) — Biology and Management of Sq
About Just Grow Something | Evidence-Based Home Gardening
Grow a better vegetable garden, whether you're a seasoned gardener or have never grown a thing in your life. Karin helps home gardeners learn to grow their own food using evidence-based techniques and research. She talks all about specific plants, pests, diseases, soil and plant health, mulch, garden planning, and more. It's not just the "how" but also the "why" that makes us better. The goal? For everyone to know how to grow their own food no matter what sized space they have or their experience level. Tune in each week to plan, learn, and grow with your friend in the garden, Karin Velez.
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