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by Alan Arnette
Alan Arnette is a renowned mountaineer and Alzheimer's advocate. He is well-known in the mountaineering community for his extensive climbing experience and his blog, which chronicles his expeditions and provides insights into mountaineering. He summited Mount Everest in 2011, Mount Manaslu in 2013, and K2 in 2014 at 58, making him the 18th and oldest American to summit the second-highest peak in the world.
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- 2 days ago32 min
Everest 2026 Season Summary–Records, Crowds, Trash & Winds
Welcome to my annual Everest summary, where I review what happened and who did what. Quirky. That's my word for Everest 2026. Or perhaps, "normal."The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close. There were delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, moments of concern and challenging climbing. Despite the dramatic headlines in the mainstream press, it was actually a fairly normal season, as evidenced in part by roughly 80% of this year's 1,008 summits occurring between May 17th and May 26th, consistent with historical trends. The Himalayan Database will publish what I consider to be the definitive results later this year. #everest2026If you would like to be notified when my memoir, "Hard or Impossible? Summiting K2 for Ida is available – I'm still looking for an agent. Complete the form at the bottom of this introduction page: https://www.alanarnette.com/memoir
- 5 days ago11 min
Everest 2026: May 3 Weekend Update Record Season Over & 1 More Death?
The 2026 Everest spring season has come to a close, marked by delays, strong winds, changing drone and helicopter rules, and challenging climbing – yet despite the dramatic mainstream press headlines, it was actually a fairly normal season. As usual, there were reports of frostbite and helicopter evacuations, but many of these incidents went unreported to avoid negative publicity. There are reports today that a Sherpa "was left to die at C3." Oh, and record permits and record summits, including 274 on one day! I'll post my season summary and wrap-up in a few days.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything
- 1 weeks ago25 min
Everest 2026: May 24 Weekend Update Nearing the End
What a week on Everest and Lhotse. The first Everest summits were on May 13 by the rope team, plus a few fast followers. Then the jet came in and stopped everyone, and when it left, well, hundreds summited, including a record 274 on May 20. I'm estimating there have been over 850 summit in total by members, guides and Sherpas. With only a few teams left, we are seeing the end of the season coming into view in breezy conditions.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05/24/everest-2026-may-24-weekend-update-nearing-the-end/
- 2 weeks ago9 min
Everest 2026: Garrett Madison Podcast from Camp 2, 2 More Deaths
A long-standing tradition is to connect with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, on an expedition. I caught up with Garrett at Everest Camp 2, 21,500 feet, during their summit push. They are targeting May 25, just a few days away. I wanted to talk to him about icefall conditions and delays, the changing rules around the jet stream, and more. I hope you enjoy. We had more summits overnight, including yet another multi-summit record.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05/22/everest-2026-garrett-madison-podcast-from-camp-2-2-more-deaths/
- 2 weeks ago26 min
Everest 2026: The Western Team's Turn, My Summit Anniversary
After a Nepal-side record 274 summits on May 20, it's time for the Western teams to take their turn. As we've discussed, the Nepali operators follow the rope team as quickly as possible to summit, while the foreign (i.e., Western) operators wait until the last possible weather window, which is now. On a personal note, this is the anniversary of my Everest summit, and I'm announcing my upcoming memoir: Hard or Impossible? Summitting K2 for Ida.Also a narrative on climbing from the South Col to Everest's summit.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05/21/everest-2026-the-western-teams-turn-my-summit-anniversary/
- 2 weeks ago12 min
Everest 2026: Weather Alert and More Summits
Despite sporadic winds and a scary weather forecast, Monday, May 18, 2026, saw scores of summits on Everest and a few on Lhotse. The jetstream remains an issue, so I did a brief podcast with meteorologist Chris Tomer, who described the situation as "erratic."Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05/18/everest-2026-weather-alert-and-more-summits/
- 2 weeks ago10 min
Everest 2026: May 17 Weekend Update—Summits!
With the ropes to Everest and, now, Lhotse in place, there were multiple summits, including records on Sunday morning, May 17, 2026. With the weather improving, the route in, team after team has left base camp to be in position for their summit. While the major impact of the jet stream has passed, fragments could still create bitter windchill and frostbite, so climbers will need to be prepared to bail if the jet stream suddenly returns.The Everest summits for the season total is around 86, with 54 Sherpas and 32 clients. The ratio is skewed by the large rope team, entirely comprised of Sherpas. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05/17/everest-2026-may-17-weekend-update-climbers-to-the-summit/
- 3 weeks ago17 min
Everest 2026 May 10 Weekend Update Ropes to South Col, Sherpa Death
The rope fixers got the fixed line to the South Col on Friday, May 8, 2026 and are on track to reach the summit by the 13th or earlier. As predicted, some Nepali teams have already positioned members at the Col to attempt the summit as the lines get there. Nepal has issued 492 Everest permits, surpassing the 2024 record of 479. A Sherpa died in the Icefall. There is climbing on the Tibet side of Everest.Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2026/05/10/everest-2026-may-10-weekend-update-ropes-to-south-col-everest-death/
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About The Podcast on alanarnette.com
Alan Arnette is a renowned mountaineer and Alzheimer's advocate. He is well-known in the mountaineering community for his extensive climbing experience and his blog, which chronicles his expeditions and provides insights into mountaineering. He summited Mount Everest in 2011, Mount Manaslu in 2013, and K2 in 2014 at 58, making him the 18th and oldest American to summit the second-highest peak in the world.
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