The Struggle Climbing Show

Adam Ondra: Stronger than Ever at 33, New Training Tools, Weird Grip Tricks, and Boulders vs Routes

June 17, 2026·1h 15m
Episode Description from the Publisher

Break through plateaus, stay consistent, and make every session count with a free 14-day trial of Intentional Climber. https://www.thestruggleclimbingshow.com/intentional     Support the Show on Patreon Get access to all Pro Clinics, bonus episodes, and more. https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   - Elite climber Adam Ondra explores: Flashing multiple V15 (8C) boulders How he’s stronger than ever at 33 The new training tools he’s using  The truth about his "secret" crimp grips  Going for V17 (and perhaps V18?) His weird low-intensity warmup for V15 flash attempts  Training solo vs with a crew  Is anyone today capable of 9c+ 5.16a - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Train harder, recover faster, and feel better than ever. I love all their stuff! Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Arc’teryx: Inspired by and tested in the Coast Mountains of BC, Arc’teryx makes gear to go the distance! If you’re out adventuring in the elements, Arc’teryx has got you covered. Shop their full collection at Arcteryx.com  Intentional Climber: Stop spinning your wheels. Start making real progress. Plan smarter, train harder, and stay consistent with world-class coaching plans, mindset tools, and powerful analytics built specifically for climbers. Download on Google Play or the App Store and use code STRUGGLE to unlock Kris Hampton’s 6-week Stronger Fingers program.   And check out ALL the show’s awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Aiden Schlatter, Michael Martin, and Kent Olmstead for supporting at the Hero level on Patreon. So mega!  - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 App Announcement 01:15 Welcome Adam Ondra 03:46 Life in Arco Italy 05:39 Smith Rock Stories 06:57 Retiring From Comps 08:49 Flash Mindset Explained 12:20 Training Tools and Crew 16:49 Board Climbing Breakdown 19:09 Sponsor Break Arc'teryx 20:52 Sponsor Break Sendurex 22:35 Strength Testing Habits 24:23 Grip Hacks and Thumb 32:09 Flash vs Project Potential 35:02 App Break Intentional 37:04 Mindset for Flash Attempts 38:47 Flash Warmup Routine 40:48 Using Beta Videos Wisely 43:37 Solo vs Crew Training 46:30 Regimen vs Flexibility 51:39 Sport Climbing Goals 53:49 Arco New Route Potential 55:41 Will 9C Get Repeated 59:20 What Makes 9C Plus 01:03:32 Staying Psyched Climbing 01:06:54 Bonus Ep

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